Every Hyderabadi has an opinion about biryani, and most of them will share it with our servers. Chef Arif Hussaini, who runs our kitchens, welcomes that. "If a guest from Old City says it tastes right, that is the only review I need."

Kacchi, not pakki

The Jharokha biryani is a kacchi gosht biryani. The mutton goes into the handi raw, marinated overnight in curd, green chilli, fried onions, mint, coriander and a spice mix ground in our kitchen. The rice goes in on top, parboiled to about seventy per cent. Everything finishes cooking together under the seal.

The seal and the slow fire

The handi is closed with a rope of dough pressed all round the lid. It goes on a high flame for the first few minutes, then onto a low one with coals on the lid. "People ask why we do not use a pressure cooker and save two hours," says Chef Arif. "Because then it is pulao with good marketing." The handi is opened only at the pass, so the first rush of steam reaches the table.

What we serve it with

Mirchi ka salan, with peanuts, sesame and long green chillies.
Dahi chutney, plain curd with onion and mint.
A boiled egg and a piece of lemon, because several regulars would leave if we stopped.

When to order it

We make a limited number of handis each day. The lunch handi goes on at 11 am and is usually finished by 2 pm; a second one is opened at dinner. If you want to be sure of a portion, especially on weekends, tell us when you reserve. Groups of six or more can order a whole handi to be opened at their table with 24 hours' notice.

There is also a vegetable dum biryani made the same way, with the same patience. Chef Arif says the vegetarian version is harder to get right. "There is no fat from the meat to forgive you."

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